A 15-mil vapor barrier can be about 25 cents per square foot. Your best bet is to have the installer provide the installation guidelines for the polyurea that will be installed. The front and one side of the shed will not have walls. When utilizing a true vapor retarder such as https://www.stegoindustries.com/stego-wrap-vapor-barriers?hsCtaTracking=d654940e-2168-473c-934d-ed294b689fe3%7C23dd2231-f515-494b-8e7f-b042972bd744 they will have a recommended seam tape and method for application. We used treated joists (but not treated sub flooring and cheap pine hardwood tongue and groove, I hate pine). I will assume cosmetic based on how you described it. Should I be concerned about humidity build up between the vapour barrier and the concrete? Would you have and idea what the best practices would be to remedy? I would consult local building codes to get the answers in your area. Thanks for the question. When he started working I asked him if he measured the moisture in the concrete and he said no he hasnt but it doesnt feel moist. What were the values? Keep in mind that there are varying thicknesses available and with the varying thicknesses you obviously get better performance. We had the carpet replaced in one bedroom soon after we moved in, and the installer recommended that we keep the underlay as it was a good brand and still very new, but it was never lifted. Is the mold really an issue if it is not disturbed? Angie, Thanks for the questions(s). Good luck. What could be causing this? Yet, we are still reading 100% on the concrete slab in the dining room. Because the concrete slab is floating thats how basements are built in Canada if moisture was to penetrate between the slab and vapour barrier, would that compromise the concrete slab over time? Any suggestions? Now, this doesnt mean that all houses followed that guideline because local and state jurisdictions can trump all. Good luck. We cant afford to keep trying different things. Here is also a link for the construction of a slab on slab https://www.concreteconstruction.net/how-to/new-slab-on-top-of-old_o Good luck. Hello Jason, Im hoping you can guide me in the right direction because im in the middle of a basement flooring nightmareour house was built in 1977 and we have a walkout basement. Jason, thank you for all the work youve put in to assemble this information! I plan to do a calcium chloride test to determine the moisture of the concrete. Livingroom and Hallway have hardwood floors. Hey Jason. Size is 670 so ft. Why You Should Use Relative Humidity (RH) Testing, Flooring, Millwork, Furniture & Cabinet Manufacturers, How to Choose a Moisture Measurement System for Your Sawmill Buying Guide, Concrete Vapor Barriers: Everything You Need to Know, Free Download 7 Things You May Not Know about Concrete Slabs. I just hit him up on Twitter and I am hoping he will help us out. my mother had a slab leak inMay and it flooded her whole house. Thanks. We found that under the clay tile, It wasnt concrete slab. Take care. The subfloor will consist of 2 X 6 joists about 1 inch off the slab. Thanks for the question. Good luck. If I pull up floor, lay plastic and put new flooring down is there a risk of mold growing between concrete and vapour barrier? Our luxury vinyl floor was laid directly on top of it. We had a moisture test done on the concrete with calcium chloride (72 hrs) and that showed no moisture in the concrete, it was just between the moisture barrier and wood. I am getting ready to strip it for about the fourth time. The same process was performed. I am guessing that you are trying to ensure there are no moisture related issues with the flooring you are going to install? Within 2 months have orange coloured crystals growing through seams. Pick an area that seems to have the worst issues, prep the area thoroughly, and apply the epoxy paint. As the carport was exterior space, the slab is lower (approx. Depending on the breathability of the two rugs you have down on the slab, you may want to keep an eye underneath them to ensure you arent trapping any potential moisture. (https://www.stegoindustries.com/). The concrete sub-floor has no direct access with the ground. Hi Jason, I have a basement concrete slab on grade that is 30 years old. ft/24 hours in 82 days with a vapor barrier, compared to 144 days when exposed to vapor from below. And adding epoxy resin between the new and old slab. I have no idea if one was originally installed, but my guess is, for 1920s construction, probably not. I hope this helps. I noticed what the installer was doing and I questioned him but did not push through asking him to fix the spreading of the vapor barrier before pouting the cement which I regret. I ruled out plumbing by a pressure test, and ruled out AC by diverting the drain. If you have concerns I would have an environmental specialist come out and evaluate the air quality in your living environment. no cracks in it tho. If I wanted to apply the shiplap directly to the slab would I need to install a paint on or plastic vapor barrier, or must I use furring strips? Also, would you see a need for wire mesh in this situation? How effective is this as a vapour barrier? After my recent rain damage, I pulled up the carpet and there was already mold and smaller mold spores forming. If you have a concrete floor thats in continuous contact with a source of moisture, youre going to have problems. You state the floor sweats. It makes me wonder if that may potentially be a perfect environment for mold growth. my biggest question is CAN I SUCCESSFULLY INSTALL CARPET IN MY BASEMENT WITHOUT THE OCCURRENCE OF MOISTURE AND/OR MOLD? Now that being said, people re-purpose all the time. Two shorter run areas have screws that we have discovered that are supposedly to keep the floor from buckling and the screws are in about 24 ft runs. It is still too wet on the wood near slab under the crawlspace. I would consult a local geotechnical company for additional information regarding performing the service. If the thickened slabs are poured prior to the top 4 slab, can the vapor barrier be placed over the thickened areas in lieu of going under the thickened footings? Thanks for the question. Thanks for the comment. It needs to dry and then stay dry to avoid flooring problems. the Spillmaster stuff was supposed to prevent mold from coming through yet it seem mold formed right at the seem of the foam and plastic/vapor barrier which is on the living space side of the upper ( the side i walk on) All answers are appreciated. Hi Jason, I have a problem. I am not sure what product was used. Thank you for the question. Does anyone know what that is? the floor is not flat or smooth and it has channels in it. (or possibly the contractor didnt prep the floor properly or mix the thinset properly) so today i ripped up all the tile and halted the project until i can find answersi really want to install tile again but my question is if I should use a painted sealer like redgard or something different to prevent moisture vapor to escape and ruin another attempt at tile! Also, Ive seen no evidence of moisture, even after weeks of leaving a taped 6mil poly section over it. This could be something as simple as varying temperatures and condensation forming on the tile. Thanks for the comment/question. If it doesnt, a moisture imbalance could eventually cause a flooring failure. I would call a local building professional to evaluate the situation. I dont see much issue with slab degradation. If there is a vapor barrier under the concrete slab in my house, and the laminate installers put a vapor barrier on top of the slab, before installing the laminate, will this not trap moisture in the concrete? While I cannot soak up any excess moisture with a towel, a Damp-Rid container fills up in about 3-4 months time, so there is definitely excess moisture in this one room. Thanks! The top of the slab is basically even with my wood floors and the only thing in between is maybe a 2 to 4 gap at best and some tin or aluminum sheathing in places. Starting with lower water-cement ratio concrete will let the slab dry faster. It is very weird. Thanks in advance! A couple of the hardwood floor contractors recommended that a concrete sealer be installed prior to putting down new felt and plywood. But I worry that sealing my floor will cause more problems with trapped moisture underneath? Vapor barriers have varying degrees of permeability, expressed in perms. Keep in mind, concrete never really dries completely and concrete, for the most part, loves water. The downstairs had 12 x 12 tile, I replaced with 30 x 30 porcelain tile in November. Most experts today don't think that's low enough, and a few materials have recently become available that have permeance values less than 0.03 permssome as low as 0.01. Good luck. After removing the drywall section where the mold was located I found that the OSB was rotted entirely out in several sections. For a basement floor (9 below grade concrete slab Ottawa, Canada location), are there any bad effects that could occur by putting a 6mil vapour barrier on top of the concrete slab, that a subfloor would be installed on top of? Have one of them evaluate and give you some input. It is obviously cheaper to do this right the next time than to replace the floor every 2-3 years. thank you. The crawl space fan is good, but I would also look at how much ventilation there is to the outside. for this. The plumbing in the entire house was done in 2018. I have a living room that used to be a garage. Just using concrete as the floor. Now we have a contractor who states he will just pour regular concrete into the holes, prior to replacing the hardwood flooring, which concerns me. Obviously, these are just a couple of suggestion. Existing space was exterior carport with concrete columns. All of these things help with minimizing moisture issues from below. My concern is two-fold: 1) Will using this air tight method cause moisture to get trapped under the plastic sheet with no way to escape? Dan Marks Technical Director (949) 325-2035. We put down laminate flooring that is now warped. We are wanting to replace the flooring. The concrete slab is 12 thick. What type of moisture barrier should be used and where it should be installed is a subject of debate. The tile option might be a good one if you can use something like Ditra or Ardex Flexbone. While a water vapor permeance of less than 0.3 perms is recommended, a higher permeance rate is usually considered acceptable for residential use. The planks of plywood will use the width of a penny for spacers and using a combination of adhesive and concrete nails to secure. will it help? Thank you! I hope this helps. This being said, I have a hard time believing that the concrete was dry enough for flooring installation. Thanks for any time and insight you may have it is appreciated. It has concrete floors. I would recommend talking about your specific project and application with the epoxy manufacturer to ensure the process is to their specifications. Good luck. Thanks for the question. My understanding is that we need some kind of vapor barrier to protect against radon (even though from my research it seems the Pacific NW has a low radon hazard), as well as needing some means of keeping the cement dry. But Im seeing like 74 degrees with 98 to 99% humidity. And is engineered hardwood any better? Im confused. Our garage floor gets damp and slippery when its humid out which is often in WI. Sorry you are having these issues. If it does find a way to escape, will it get trapped between my walls and cause a problem? There are industry-accepted test methods for determining the moisture condition of the slab, and I suggest you look into this before doing anything. Im just more concerned with prevention of mold growth and moisture. Thinner plastic can't stand up to the abuse of construction. I have a contractor that says half of my garage reads a 5 on moisture gauge and wants to lay down a ristoleum vapor barrier for $1850. The builder says theyre going to put a patch over the puncture and lay another sheet of vapor barrier. Say 12 X 12 tile or a breathable carpet. Would it be advisable to put a vapor barrier on the floor to reduce any smells? I have a problem with my walk-in-beer cooler located in a convenience store in W. TN. My only concern with laying a vapor retarder of that type, on the slab, would be the potential buildup of moisture between the slab and the retarder. As far as installing the laminate, I would contact the manufacturer of whatever product you chose and have them give you some recommended solutions. These low permeability materials completely eliminate any moisture migration from the ground, allowing the slab to dry out much more quickly and to stay dry. I am on the 4th floor of a condo. Thanks for the comment. I live in Florida on the west coast. And is a vapor barrier under the new to-be-poured concrete needed? Im inclined to trust him, but what do you think? It is an old building built in the early 70s which purchased 4 years It had mold remediation done but we do not have contact with the previous owner to query where this work was done. Both of these are flooring industry-accepted methods for concrete moisture testing. They arent the only game out there, but it is a place to start. I do not want to replace this floor again anytime soon! 1. In May I noticed small droplets of water seeping out of the grout lines in several areas, by August 2016 there was grout discoloration in several areas as well as water seepage. You may want to also look at power vents that may assist with increased airflow when preset levels of relative humidity and/or temperature levels are hit. What can I paint onto the subfloor to eliminate moisture coming through when it rains? Should I use a membrane between before pouring self levelling concrete over the pipes? I hope this helps. Help me!???? Thanks for the question. I have never heard of anyone utilizing poly to increase the strength of the concrete. Do I need to dismantle my rebar and styrofoam to dry the potential puddle sitting on top of the poly? In this article, we will be using the term vapor barrier. I live in Atlanta, Georgia, and I have a house which is 33 years old with a unfinished daylight basement. The carpet feels slightly gritty at all times (regardless of steam cleaning), but when it rains, the carpet almost feels damp and gritty. obviously we will lay plastic for the entire floor but thought would be double protection under the footing trenches and posts to protect from moisture. The adhesive was supposed to be a 2 in 1 adhesive/vapor barrier product. What is your thoughts on this? Would drylock on the floor first prevent the moisture capillary affect or whatever it is that is happening? Im avoiding a simple plastic ones for that reason and looking into underlayments that are designed for LVP (such as FloorMuffler LVT). Hello, We have a partial concrete slab that we are planning to subfloor over to make a level floor throughout the house. In various places around the house we installed a gypcrete leveling course (1/2 5/8) and then a glued down engineered wood. A 10-mil barrier is probably OK for residential construction if you're careful not to puncture it during construction. We are questioning using a vapor barrier under the concrete and also wire mesh rust bleed through due to using the vapor barrier. 100mm of kingspan insulation has been installed and then concrete base on top. I have a question on floating concrete slab (interior). Im concerned that a vapor barrier would trap moisture underneath it. Usually performing a core test is the best way to confirm the presence of a vapor retarder. Home The Rapid RH Concrete Moisture Test Concrete Information & Knowledge Base Subfloor Moisture Concrete Vapor Barriers: Everything You Need to Know. I remember when the floor was installed there was a foam underlayment but I to not remember it having any plastics on the bottom side. Obviously, I am not endorsing any of these, but they are products that come up in daily discussions. I think he is just handing me BS and hiding behind the moisture level issue. My uncle had the cooler installed appx 10 to 15 years ago. Thanks for the comment. I have a home that I did a substantial renovation on 3 years ago. Thank you for your page Jason! On new interior slabs, moisture can be easily controlled and mostly eliminated. Our ins. Although this may be a prudent option (I havent heard of it under carpet padding), I would consult the manufacturer of the products you will be using to get their feedback and guidance based on their specific product characteristics. Well, I can say that having issues on concrete slabs, other than the ground floor, is more common than you would think. Can you please provide further clarification? Please advise. The installer says that my moisture level is too high, and doesnt want to be responsible if it ever warps. Vapor barriers also block gases, such as methane or radon. Just a quick one my builder have put a vapour barrier at the bottom of the insulation on a sand base. Which left us with two holes, one roughly 2 ft X 1 ft, the other 3 ft X 1.5 ft also multiple exploratory holes from the leak detection company. The condo has had laminate flooring in it for years. I have mold issues and am looking for a house. I am sure you probably already have, but I would go back to the respective manufacturers installation documents and/or contact them directly with your situation and get their guidance. I just bought a raised ranch modular home that sits on a poured concrete foundation on 3.25 walls. The crawlspace is probably only 1.5, so its kind of tough to manuever around, but it is possible. sir..i need advice does precast earthing pit need vapor barrierssince this considered as non sturctutral concrete dimension is 30cm x30 cm by 20 cm our engineer require as to wrap the the precast before backfill is it necessary..?? In a small 5 x 5 toilet room in the master bath, we took up clay tile, In order to tile the whole bathroom Including this separate toilet room with matching tile instead of re-installing carpet. Front-line technology produces an extensive line of water repellent products. Thank you!! The best way to accomplish that is with a vapor barrier under the slab. However, there are underlayments that act as vapor barriers. I will try them. Thanks! You can look at a company like Stego for options Stego Industries | Moisture Protection Solutions. The floor is generally dry, but Id like to have some vapor barrier protection and the cushion. Hi, I have a 20 year old house with a mud slab crawl space floor. This leads me to believe its condensation. I would also look to see if potentially doing one of the planking systems that allows for a floating installation may not bring something positive to the table. no secondary barrier has been insulated on top of the insulation ive been informed from my building inspector it isnt a building requirement just a manufacture requirement. The home (19yrs old) has a concrete slab on grade with a visqueen vapor barrier under the slab. 3 Tips for Concrete Moisture Testing in the Real World, 3 Key Lessons about Moisture from an Old Concrete Floor. Nick. Jason has 20+ years experience in sales and sales management in a spectrum of industries and has successfully launched a variety of products to the market, including the original Rapid RH concrete moisture tests. Good luck. Hi Jason, I live in Miami, FL bought a two story 1974 townhouse last August 2015. If yes, then what were the moisture testing results? Thank you. About a year later the defects showed up again in other boards in the office. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Im desperate for resolution. These surface meters are meant to be used to identify suspect areas on a floor, not to make installation decisions. should i cover the cement ground using poly tarp ? Thank you. Dan, Thanks for the questions. I would say you are on the right track with insulating the break between the cooler slab and the wood. He currently works with Wagner Meters as our Rapid RH product sales manager. In the end, follow the manufacturers guidelines to ensure the highest potential for a successful installation. I installed carpet two years ago when I moved in. this is why im doing the slab so i have one solid and flat floor. Thanks for the comment/question. I dont claim to be a radiant heat slab construction expert, but I would think you would want things as dry as possible prior to the pour. If parts of the slab got cold enough to reach its dew point, I suppose condensation could form, but to have it be spotty is indeed strange. Could this be caused by moisture in the slab or no vapor barrier? Is this existing construction? Thanks for the question. Thanks for your advice. If it is environmental and there isnt something causing it i.e dryer vent not venting correctly to the outside, etc.) Based on the information, I really cant answer the question. We are pouring a 2430 patio in central Florida on a sand base . then correcting in may be difficult. Thanks for the comment. Near a lake but never have had any water of any sort on the floor. should be enough. Good luck. Great question. Having that vapor retarder on top tends to lessen any issues associated with moisture and the finish. Guide to Concrete Floor and Slab Construction, https://www.stegoindustries.com/stego-wrap-vapor-barriers?hsCtaTracking=d654940e-2168-473c-934d-ed294b689fe3%7C23dd2231-f515-494b-8e7f-b042972bd744, https://www.concreteconstruction.net/how-to/new-slab-on-top-of-old_o, https://www.tcnatile.com/faqs/71-thick-setthick-bed.html, http://www.elitebuilding.com/tile/ref/trowelsize.htm, Why Your Carpet Smells and What You Can Do About It, Concrete RH Testing: Tips to Reduce Your Risk of Courtroom Drama. Therefore, there needs to be something underneath the slab that prevents vapor moisture from entering. The slab is in fine condition. Now we dont know what to put down. tile, carpet, paint? I am sure it would be better if the vapor barrier had been tightly installed and sealed well with good overlaps, but should I still be in better shape or is the floor going to be vulnerable to wicking dampness because the vapor barrier was not installed thoroughly? We put down the recommended barrier with the plastic backing before laying the floor. I cant say whether vinyl planking would be better, but I would at least investigate it. Find out where to buy vapor barriers and other problem solving products. They should be able to verify the existence of a vapor retarder and potentially help identify the source of the moisture. I am working on a project and the exiting mat slab is maintained and will have a new foundation next to it. hi jason i have a workshop in an old barn with a cement floor pre 1030 vintage. Thanks for the question. Could this odor be caused from the moisture coming from the cement and trapped in the foam underlayment? Again, this is a personal choice. I really really really want carpet, but i really really really dont want to be replacing my carpet every two years and develop respiratory issues. I would like to put down an impermeable class 1 vapor barrier on top of the slab before I put down any flooring. You have a lot going on here and many are moving variables. Thank you for the question Gary. This causes the adhesives to breakdown and you end up with flooring failures such as swelling, bulging, or cupping. Or would a poly modified medium bed thinset be sufficient? My two main thoughts are potential mold growing under the vapor barrier, and potential slab degradation. Im considering building a new home and the new home builder does not install a vapor barrier underneath the slab in the basement. Thanks for the question. Thanks for the comment. Thanks for the comment. Lastly, regarding vapor retarders, there is a need to balance the entire building envelope system which would include the slab and finish as one unit, not the slab and finish separately. The slab is in excellent condition and is 16 years since curing. Thanks for the question. The cooler is sitting on a bare slab appx 6x16. Also, in some of the inquiries I read about smells, and radon. Im going to start building, and vapor barrier doesnt come in sheets as wide as the house, so Im getting the idea that the sections/layers should be sealed together with some sort of exterior silicone stuff? How would you recommend mediation to resolve issue. This is great for finishing, but not good for the overall health of the finish that will be installed on the surface of the concrete. We installed laminate flooring about 6 years ago and now have a terrible odor. Basement installed by reputable contractor 20 years ago. I think this may help ensure a successful installation. Im planning to build a shed, approx. Unfortunately, the deck part of my house is not finished yet (still bare wood) and rain have started to seep through the beam and leaked onto my ready floor. This is one reason why I always refer to ACI302.1 when discussing vapor retarder usage and proper placement. Would pouring a new slab over the existing one be something to consider? Thanks for the questions. In one room on the first floor we wanted to remove the rather low drywall ceiling, metal studs and framework then apply nickel gap shadow box ship lap on the ceiling to create more headroom. Rebar framework and equipment mounting studs will be built into the hole and then the hole filled with cement. In order to access the leak, the plumber had to cut the hardwood flooring, jackhammer through the concrete, cut the rebar and cut the plastic vapor barrier. A couple years ago I put up another building adjacent to the old one with the floor being 4 higher than the old building, with the intent on someday pouring a new floor in the old building to match floor levels. I need you help or is something I need to do around the Concret slab?? Especially due to this being a flooding situation, I think the sealer is warranted. I also thought about using a spray foam on the exposed slab and between crevices and on the wood joists in that area, but everything is too wet/ damp. The quality of the concrete used (Eg 15 MPa vs 20 MPa / 2175 psi vs 2900 psi) has a large bearing in it. I think there is now trapped rainwater in between my poly and styrofoam. You really need to look at the permeability specs on the Spray Polyurethane Foam to determine if it is an effective vapor retarder. My home is in southern Michigan. I had a leak detection done and there was no plumbing issues detected. Have already spent $5,000 trying to solve this issue. The last thing you want your customers to envision when thinking of a concrete floor is a damp, cold basement slab. We just built a condition party barn in Middle TN. Here is information to help you understand how moisture moves in a slab and how using a vapor barrier can help control the problem. Our rental home had a slab with laminate flooring glued directly to the slab. Good luck. He feels we need to consult with a foundation expert. Wow, what an experience. I look forward to your shared results. Would you place a vapor barrier against stud wall? One of the reasons those old basement floors were like that was because they had no vapor barrier beneath them, leaving an easy path for water vapor from the soil to migrate into the slab, assuring that the cold clammy damp feeling never went away.
- Miter Trim Cutter Menards
- How To Frame Bathroom Mirror With Clips
- Verge Girl Along The Sidewalk
- Diaper Bag Carry-on Delta
- Tower Suites Cloud Nine
- Tim Holtz Mini Distress Ink Sets List
- Large Oval Moissanite Engagement Rings
- Car Interior Plastic Scratch Repair
5-mil vapor barrier can be about