But the large Barroso diaspora, which returns each summer from all over the globe to the place they still call home, was also affected. The coast is largely unknown to visitors from the United States, whose bucket list for Portugal is generally the famed cities of Lisbon and Porto, and the Algarve region to the south, which has some beautiful towns like Lagos, but is often overrun with tourists, especially in the peak summer months. The land there, which once belonged to the King of Portugal, has been owned since the 1950s by the Espirito Santo family (Portugals equivalent of the Rockefellers), who, starting in the 1990s, began inviting some of their friends to the area, including Princess Caroline and Prince Albert of Monaco. The main square of Vilarinho Seco, one of the oldest villages in the Barroso region. The United Nations World Heritage list, which includes Evora, calls it the finest example of a city of the golden age of Portugal after the destruction of Lisbon by the 1755 earthquake. This was the most tourist-intense part of our week, but well worth the detour. Confeitaria Serrana, a family-run bakery for over 40 years, serves the citys best bola de Berlim (1.10 euros, or $1.16 at $1.06 to the euro), a dose of custard sandwiched in a sugar-dusted roll. Pair with wine from the Douro Valley (wine and small plates for two, around 20 euros). The Centro Comercial Bombarda doesnt open until noon, but this collection of small shops and restaurants on the gallery-thronged Rua da Bombarda is heaven for shoppers looking for boutiques crammed with goods from homegrown designers. Half living room, half shop, Mercado 48 has the kind of souvenirs that youll be proud to show off at home, like the modern cork-and-ceramic teapots and mugs, glazed in a variety of colors, that give a nod to Portugals history of cork production. Follow New York Times Travel on Instagram, Twitter and Facebook. Anyone can read what you share. There are many area homes available for short-term rentals and a campground that has small, but comfortable, bungalows for rent near the beach. No opening date has been set. Run by the knowledgeable and friendly Marco Ferreira and Clia Lino, Porto in a Bottle specializes in port from small producers. Her seven-year-old sister, Bruna, is the second youngest. Here we make everything at home, he proudly explained, pouring wine into my glass. As a subscriber, you have 10 gift articles to give each month. So Torpes beach along the Alentejo coast is popular with surfers. Shop for cork-centric souvenirs that extend beyond the bottle stopper at Cork & Co, a bi-level store filled with eco-conscious designs, from decorative bowls to stylish wine coolers carved from the lightweight material. Please upgrade your browser. Another noteworthy newcomer, the Corpo Santo Lisbon Historical Hotel is an upscale property that also opened last year near the lively Cais do Sodr district, with welcoming staff, a convenient location, an on-site restaurant and 77 plush, neutral-hued rooms (Rua do Corpo Santo 25; 351-218-288-000; corposantohotel.com; from about 180 euros). But the Alentejo coast is a newer addition on the international tourist map, pulling in affluent visitors starting around 2000, when many of them headed to the seaside village called Comporta, up the road from Melides. Along with his wife, Joana Espinheira, Mr. Lemos opened Stash, a sandwich shop, in 2014. The local butcher, with his daughter standing by his side, was selling roasted whole chickens and slabs of fresh-cut beef to customers who only had to look into the store and nod to put in their orders, much as it has been done in this tiny hillside village in rural Portugal for decades now. Colorful Portuguese wares line the shelves at A Vida Portuguesa. My first stop was at the village of Vilarinho Seco, considered one of the best-preserved examples of the traditional architecture of the Barroso, with houses made of rustic stone, often with a shed for the animals on the ground floor, ornate granite granaries next to them, and public water fountains lining the streets every few hundred yards. This cozy, narrow bar opened a few years ago with crowded tables, an emerald-tiled bar, and a variety of Portuguese craft beers try the Klsch from Lisbons Oitava Colina brewery. Visit both buildings to explore contemporary art installations, interactive science exhibits and video works displayed amid the plants hulking, well-preserved machinery (admission, 9 euros). The ham and sausages from the pigs will feed them throughout the year. But it is the setting itself that is unrivaled. The result is a historic building thats Instagram-worthy inside and out. Meals begin with bread and butter flavored with Iberian ham; follow this with the steak tartare and fresh potato chips, or stewed gizzards. Join the local crowd sipping ginja, a traditional sour-cherry liqueur, at purple tables beside the restored quiosque in Praa das Flores, a small, leafy park with a central fountain that doubles as a watering hole for neighborhood cats. A brightly trimmed house on the main street of Porto Covo, a fishing village known for its beaches. Fontainhas beach in the village of Melides, Portugal. Our rental was about 15 minutes outside of Melides, and just two blocks from what is, without question, the most extraordinary stretch of beach I have seen anywhere in the world, called Praia da Gal. In 2019, residents of Covas were surprised by the news that a mining company was awarded a permit, given by the Portuguese government, to extract lithium in the mountains surrounding the village. Residents of Vilarinho Seco sing and drink after a religious procession. The village lies on the edge of a valley, surrounded by forests of pine and oak. His neighbor is Noemi Marone Cinzano, a countess and winemaker whose family formerly owned the famous Italian brand of vermouth. Grab a coffee and pastry at one of the citys myriad confeitarias and save room for an early lunch. these suggestions on what to pack for the trip. The Graa Convent has a tiled chapel and Baroque cloister that opened to the public for the first time after recent restorations. Wander along the riverbank, or go for the tour at Sandeman or Taylors, then hop on the telefrico (5 euros), which will carry you back to the bridge. At nearby Cremosi, the superb local gelato comes in boozy flavors, including port and gin and tonic. A view of Lisbon from the Arco da Rua Augusta. On Rua dos Caldeireiros, a handful of restaurants have recently appeared, of which Caldeireiros is the standout. The area has the last unspoiled stretch of Atlantic Ocean coast in all of southern Europe. One day, we discussed the mine while returning his flock to its shed. As I turned away from the ocean, what could I see? Each of its five rooms is different, but all feature wooden floors and a modern aesthetic. Our ideal version of a day was just hanging out in the nearly empty village of Melides, or by the beach. The Ponte de Dom Lus I stretches from the Ribeira section of Porto over the River Douro to Vila Nova de Gaia. After shopping, grab a drink and head to the deck chairs on the patio in the summer, or the picnic tables in front of the indoor fire in the winter. The best meal we had in Melides was the roast chicken we bought from the butcher on the town square. Admission, 3 euros, or about $3.70. Unbeatable panoramic views of Portos churches and rooftops, its historic port warehouses, the curve of the Douro River and the seagulls sweeping over the waterfront Ribeira neighborhood may be had from the belfry of the Torre de Clrigos (admission 3 euros), 225 steps up a narrow spiral staircase. Ancient Catholic rites have combined with the cultural vestiges from the many other peoples who, over several centuries, have found their way to the region: Visigoths, Celts, Romans, the soldiers of Napoleons army. After dawn, I would take a hike on the cliffs, some 200-feet high, overlooking the ocean you can imagine the view. Opened last year in a historic building formerly occupied by the consulate of Brazil, Le Consulat is a sophisticated hotel with eight spacious suites decorated with artworks culled from top Lisbon galleries, and views across the lovely Cames square in the central Chiado district (Praa Lus de Cames 22; 351-212-427-470; leconsulat.pt; from about 200 euros). Four families in Vilarinho Seco pool their labor and equipment to plant potatoes in early spring, a common practice in the Barroso. The Barroso, in northern Portugal, is part of the historical province of Trs os Montes behind the hills, in Old Portuguese. The Alentejo region, as the area is known, has the last unspoiled stretch of Atlantic Ocean coast in all of southern Europe. Explore street view, find things to do in Porto and sign in to your Google account to save your map. Many ancient Catholic traditions remain alive in the Barroso, sometimes incorporating customs from other peoples who roamed the region in the past, like the Celts and the Romans. (The mosquitoes are also pretty overwhelming at night, as the village is built at the edge of a rice field). Its walkable center is crammed with cobbled streets and balconies adorned with flowerpots, and the citys love of food and design is apparent in concept stores and trendy restaurants offering innovative small plates. An ideal day in Porto combines both the grandeur of its history and its very up-to-the-minute cool. Pub Lisboeta in the Prncipe Real district serves a variety of Portuguese craft beers. To survive the unforgiving geography, residents of the Barroso have, over time, developed a complex farming system that relies on the collective management of the water, forests and pastures used by their animals. A pristine stream courses through it, and seemingly every house has an orchard full of grapevines and persimmon trees. With attractive Art Nouveau architecture and prime locations in plazas, parks and scenic overlooks throughout the city, these popular kiosks are natural gathering points from sunup to sundown. Every year, at the beginning of the winter, residents slaughter pigs to make ham and sausages that feed them throughout the year. The menu lists over 50 varieties of gin and tonic, served Spanish-style in bulbous glasses. Cattle in the Barroso graze outside all through the year and are never given animal feed. Isolation has made the traditions here particularly rich and diverse. Melides also served as a great launching point for day trips throughout the Alentejo region, including Comporta. If dinner at the Michelin-starred Pedro Lemos restaurant will break the bank, its still possible to try the eponymous chefs food. As one of Portugals rock star chefs, Jos Avillez is a household name. Soon, small groups of cows emerged from the mist, orderly marching in single file to their sheds to spend the night. (It looks laid back, but it was also recently featured in Architectural Digest.). The cork is used in wine bottles, of course, as well as shoes, bags and other items, all of which are sold in local shops). For those who are more interested in sampling than shopping, Vinologia offers a choice of port flights (35 euros) that come with a short introduction to the many varieties. Mr. Gomess wife, Aida, is the villages President of the Baldio, an elected official charged with overseeing and keeping official tabs on the use of the forest areas and water springs used collectively by residents. When I get back to London, I need a crash helmet.. A delightful trend thats ramped up in Porto is petiscos, the Portuguese version of tapas. Add to that a bottle of Tejo tinto and some Portuguese sheeps-milk cheese for dessert, and a satisfying dinner for two is about 50 euros (cash only). Well, we are the ones who chose to stay and raise our families here. Lunch for two, about 50 euros. When I read about the regions U.N. designation, I realized there was something special about my familys roots that I wasnt aware of, a perspective that my work as a photographer could give me the privilege of exploring in depth which I did over many trips until the coronavirus pandemic hit.

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